PROFILES

Since the launch last March of her Vaudou bag brand this Franco-Mexican, Niçois by adoption, has made her mark in the world of sustainable luxury.

At just 29 Mariana Gugluaris doesn't lack talent or temperament. With genuine passion she talked to us about her project that has created a minor revolution in the fashion world: "In 2008 I woke up in the middle of the night wondering about the unknown artisans who made my clothes, bags and so on. And I remembered that each Christmas my grandmother would knit me an unwearable wool jumper that I nonetheless never threw away. When something is made with love, that creates a bond with the person, it's magical. From that came the idea of creating a personal relationship between artisans and consumers." The Vaudou concept was born.

Who made my bag?
Mariana has travelled a lot in India and developed a passion for its craftsmanship and culture. Having won the trust of the Lambani and Banjara tribes on the Pakistani border, she is now trying to change the world through positive consumption. "Our 'Who Made My Bag?' campaign is about supplying the name, photo and signature of the master leatherworker and the embroiderer involved in making each bag, meaning that our bags are not anonymous, each has a human identity and story." Right now Vaudou is essentially an NGO supporting some 100 embroiderers working as a cooperative. "Once we have taught them to love beautiful work, they achieve extraordinary results. Everything they learn they can use elsewhere, for their own benefit."

Recognition through work
All her creations feature tribal embroidery meticulously applied to very high quality leathers. Each bag is unique; the designs are ultramodern and the linings in electric-blue suede. "The bag must be THE motivation to buy; I don't want pity purchases," she insists. "I came to France when I was 14 because of the recession in Mexico – my father had lost everything; it was a huge shock but I spoke two languages, knew two cultures. My parents gave me the means to get along by myself anywhere and never be afraid, by working." Mariana already has new projects in the pipeline, notably involving her native Mexico. A gifted woman we'll be hearing a lot more about!

By Marjorie Modi