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August 2022

Arnaud Donckele

  • The poetic chef with six stars
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© Lavaguedor

Arnaud Donckele remains discreet, despite his impressive track record. He rose through the ranks very fast, working under top chefs. By the age of 27 he was running the iconic Michelin-starred restaurant La Vague d’Or at Résidence de la Pinède in Saint-Tropez. Plaudits came thick and fast, and in 2013, when he was 35, he became the youngest chef in France to boast three Michelin stars. The Résidence was bought up by LVMH in 2016 and renamed Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez. Last February, after a few months at the newly-opened Plénitude Cheval Blanc Paris, Arnaud Donckele was again awarded Michelin’s top accolade.
He says that despite his six stars, “Nothing is set in stone.” “You have to question yourself constantly to achieve excellence.” He goes out often to meet his suppliers – growers, fishermen and farmers in the region. Top-grade local ingredients, produced with love, enhanced and bolstered by the chef’s complex sauces and condiments. Precise in everything, he plays with textures, temperatures, and cooking methods. The results, like his John Dory in plankton juice, are pitch-perfect. La Vague d’Or by Arnaud Donckele at Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez, soon to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its three Michelin stars, is assuredly one of the chosen few.

 By Lionel Leoty

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