Chic sneakers, elegant shades, controlled volumes, a hint of streetwear... for a decade now he has been shaking up Lanvin's menswear codes.
A pragmatic aesthete, a dreamer who gets things done. Lucas Ossendrijver, creative director of Lanvin Homme, isn't one to bother about contradictions. Inseparable from his backpack and the bicycle he bought on arriving in Paris, he dreams up the fashion house's menswear, inspired, he says, by photographer David Armstrong's Night & Day. This Dutchman born in 1970 grew up in the country, his father the owner of a construction company. "As a child I loved putting bits of wood together," remembers the designer who sketches little but sews and cuts, describing himself as a "rigorous technician".
Making his mark
Ossendrijver discovered fashion at Arnhem's school of fine arts. His graduation collection set him up for a career in which he trained under Kenzo then worked with Hedi Slimane, revolutionising the Dior men's look for over three years. By then ready to work at his own pace, he joined Lanvin in 2005: "Learning and mastering, they're my two obsessions." He has certainly made his mark, essentially by controlling the silhouette without it becoming too rigid. A fascination for navy blue, high-cut trainers that appeared back in autumn/winter 2006 and over the seasons have become collectables, a subtle twist on streetwear, fluid volumes... Ossendrijver's vocabulary is now the language of modern man.
Par Julie de los Rios
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