PROFILES

An unmissable figure on the Riviera gastro-scene, Christian Plumail has been a regular in our columns since we first met him 27 years ago, back in 1990 when he had only just taken over the Hostellerie de l’Abbaye in La Colle-sur-Loup. In 1995 he opened his Nice restaurant L’Univers and earned a Michelin star, but in 2014 decided to close it to embark on new ventures. “I sold the restaurant so I would have fewer constraints and more free time. What with my work, my cookery classes, my table d’hôtes meals and my radio programme on France Bleu Azur, the last doesn’t seem to have happened – but it doesn’t stop me being happy!” A free spirit always seeking out new challenges, this go-getter has for the last two years headed up the Yacht Club de Monaco’s catering. “This experience is giving me a new angle on my profession and above all an opportunity to do things I never could have in my own name, such as organising an Elton John concert.” Back in 1990 he described himself as “eclectic in cuisine”; nowadays he’s still promoting southern gastronomy and spotlighting the best local produce through simple, authentic compositions that he enjoys having the elite Club’s 2000 members discover. “It’s another world here but I’ve stayed true to myself – which is in fact my strength.” With his characteristic generosity and frankness Plumail strives more than ever to serve happiness on a plate. “I try to pass on through my cooking what I’ve learned about life: it’s in simplicity that you find happiness.” I’ve been lucky enough to be able to buy myself a Porsche, then I realised I was happier on a bicycle, in my trainers. It’s the same with cooking. Anyone can open tins of caviar; my challenge is teaching people to discover or rediscover the real taste of a sardine!“

Par Marjorie Modi

Photo Jean-Michel Sordello