TRENDS

The manufacture in the Vallée-de-Joux embraces both tradition and innovation, its 1200 employees excelling at 180 crafts that contribute to the élite of fine watchmaking.We visited.

In the Swiss Jura this manufacture founded in 1833 is seen as an example – for good reason! In our age of delocalisation, this great watchmaker is proud to craft its watches on the spot, from A to Z. So our visit takes place in a spirit of complete transparency. Everything is done within these four walls, from manufacturing the tiniest components to encasing the watches. And at Jaeger-LeCoultre excellence is above all a human feat, from the designer sketching an idea through the micro-engineer in the cutting shop to the skilled watchmaker who finishes assembling the movement. Together, they write watchmaking history. The first stage is manufacturing the components, with trusty old machines working alongside the latest technological marvels. Our visit continues in the workshops, first where the movements are assembled, then where the complications are decorated. Don't forget that most of the components – even those not visible through a sapphire caseback – are decorated by hands endlessly repeating meticulous, technically-challenging movements passed down through the generations, in the light that streams in through huge windows looking out onto a verdant landscape. Time seems to stand still here, but Jaeger-LeCoultre nonetheless continues to uphold the spirit of innovation demonstrated by its founder, Antoine Le Coultre (1803-1881), who invented a machine for cutting pinions out of steel and the world's most precise measuring instrument, the Millionomètre.

A duty of transmission
Then to the Grandes Complications workshop where Christian Laurent welcomes us warmly. This passionate watchmaker has been part of the watch house for nigh-on 50 years, consequently participating in its finest inventions of recent decades, such as the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie boasting no less than 26 complications! Today his expert eye picks out promising youngsters who will become the great watchmakers of tomorrow, passing on his knowledge and honing their talents. Only a few will prove skilful enough to devote a year of their life to assembling a Grande Sonnerie watch! We move on to the Métiers Rares workshop housing a score of artistic artisans, most of whom studied fine arts. With demand growing, the manufacture has expanded this department to comprise four applied arts, two of which are no longer taught in schools. Sophie, a master enameller with 20 years' experience, trains apprentices in the techniques of high-fire enamel and miniature painting. Muriel is a master guillocheur who will soon be passing her knowledge on to the next generation. As for the gems, each stone is examined by a qualified expert; the diamonds must fulfil the 4Cs quality criteria of Colour, Carat weight, Clarity and Cut. Lastly, the engravers demonstrate their extensive knowhow in customising and skeletonising movements. Our visit ends in the Heritage Gallery, which takes us through the history of this great watchmaker and of fine watchmaking too, for they are part of each other.

Par Julie de los Rios