Fonfon et Jeannot
Alphonse Mounier (aka Fonfon) and his cousin Jeannot used to greet each other through the window every morning, one or other having walked the few yards between Fonfon's temple to bouillabaisse and Jeannot's pizza pantheon. Alexandre and Peggy Pinna, keen to continue the family tradition, now run both restaurants. They are keeping up the culinary tradition too, serving bouillabaisse, Marseille's celebrated fish soup, in a sophisticated setting on one side of the harbour and pizzas and baby cuttlefish in a sixties decor on the other. With desserts by Marrou on both sides you can't go wrong.
Chez Fonfon, 140 Vallon des Auffes, 7e - Tél. 04 91 52 14 38
Chez Jeannot, 29 Vallon des Auffes, 7e - Tél. 04 91 52 11 28
L’Epuisette
The name means "landing net" and you'll be happy to get caught in this one. The restaurant's modesty is in inverse proportion to the chef's talent. Guillaume Sourrieu, who earned his culinary stripes under Troisgros and Loiseau, produces wonderful food with stunning regularity. The meat and fish are pitch-perfect: crusty veal sweetbreads and potatoes with aniseed flavoured jus; meltingly soft turbot with baby girolles and star-of-Bethlehem shoots with salted butter. The wine list is worthy of the food.
158 Vallon des Auffes, 7e - Tél. 04 91 52 17 82
Chez Péron
This place is like a steamer stranded atop the rocks; you can sup your bouillabaisse with the blue sea lapping just below. Luscious duck foie gras, stuffed cuttlefish, spinach and chard with lemon, black rice with preserved sweet pepper. The years go by and, like the waves, are powerless against this bastion of foodie enchantment.
56 corniche Kennedy - Tél. 04 91 521 522
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