Le Sartenais
Rural idyll near Sartène
The Ortolo valley reveals the real, rustic Corsica and its wild countryside, far from the tourist crowds. A treat for the soul, with unspoilt countryside as far as the eye can see.
By Laurece Jacquet

Sartène on its granite hillside overlooks the green slopes of the Ortolo valley. Shrubland alternates with meadows, vineyards and, nearer the coast, olive groves. Nearby, the Domaine de Murtoli offers its 2000 hectares to agritourism. The eco-conscious farm boasts a 5-star hotel with some 20 luxuriously-restored sheep barns and 17-century houses, and two restaurants. La Table de la Grotte offers a grand culinary experience with grills and Corsican specialities served on terraces set among spectacular wind-worn rocks. At La Table de la Plage the terraces are built from driftwood. A tour of the kitchen garden and the farm remind us that Murtoli is first and foremost an agricultural estate where the journey from farm to fork is as short as could be. It’s a heavenly place, ideally located for exploring the region or touring the local wineries to taste their sun-drenched wines. Walking through the aromatic maquis is enjoyable at any time of year, discovering secret creeks, the Roccapina tower or the ancient standing stones on the Cauria plateau a stone’s throw from Domaine de Murtoli. There’s something for everyone here, from boat trips and VTT or horseback rides to the 12-hole golf course, excellent fishing and lazing in the shade.

Organic garden
Michèle Pantalacci distils flowers, herbs and other plants from her garden a 15-minute drive from Sartène along the road to Orasi. Her organic essential oils, plant oils, floral waters and massage oils are on sale in the garden’s shop.
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