The place is stunning: pared back and understated, with bare concrete walls, oak tables on steel legs, tube-and-cord chairs and soft lighting. Mazzia designed it from A to Z, going straight to the essence. He brought in architect Pascal Reynaud, designer Jérôme Dumetz and furniture maker Sébastien Mazzoni to help him carry it through. There are no frills here, nothing to distract you from fully enjoying the experience of the flavours. The chef's creations spring from his imagination and ask no other justification. Cooking is a major art form with Mazzia. He likes playing with nuances and textures, putting together opposite extremes harmoniously and letting himself be guided by his predominant feelings, which stem from his travels and his childhood. You can't live in Pointe Noire (in the Congo) for 14 years without absorbing some African culture! Alexandre Mazzia is a nomad and he'll take you where he will. So step into the AM and let yourself be carried to an unknown destination. The menu will tell you nothing beyond the prices of the four set menus – no poetically named dishes or complicated descriptions here! The chef has a free hand, so just choose the price and let yourself be carried away by each of the 5 to 16 successive dishes. There again nothing is set in stone: everything depends on the chef's mood and inspiration.
9 rue Rocca, Marseille 8e - Tél. 04 91 24 83 63
By Maurice Gouiran
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