In March 2016, Christian Étienne sold his restaurant to Guilhem Sevin, his second-in-command for 16 years. “Time needs to take its course,” muses Sevin. “Some customers are still surprised to find Christian Étienne no longer at the helm. We’re thinking of changing the logo and putting more of our own stamp on the place. We’ve made many changes to the restaurant, though we’re limited by its status as a listed building.” The restaurant’s “Tomato” menu in summer and the “Truffle”, “Pork” and “Spring Vegetable” menus have all been retained, as have the bread and cheese carts. “I’ve always had white hair, that’s how I am, but my enthusiasm is undented,” reassures the chef. “Becoming a business owner has forced me to know everything, make all the decisions and delegate. It’s been a huge learning curve; it takes time.” Unruffled by nature and a natural teacher, Guilhem Sevin recalls his “early errors” and says that “shouting at the team is counter-productive. I prefer to involve them in devising the menus and making decisions.” His vision for the future? “I’d like people to talk less about me and more about the restaurant!” confides the chef. “We want to pamper our clients, make a fuss of them and allow them to take time out from a hectic world,” adds Corrine, Guilhem’s wife and associate. “I’d like Guilhem to win a second star and offer affordable luxury. In short, we want to retain our spirit of simplicity and intimacy.”
10 rue de Mons, 84000 Avignon
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by Pierre Psaltis
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