Le Peron, a Marseille institution run by Denis Barral, has three chefs working in unison in its kitchen: Yannis Lisseri, Vincent Peinado and Kohei Ohata, who hails from Japan.
In this unique restaurant (which has added some embellishments to its decor since the start of this year, such as the almost-invisible glass wall of the terrace) the three chefs work in highly organised cooperation. "Each of us has their own tasks and their own personal touch," says Yannis Lisseri, who has been here since 2004 and has been chef des cuisines since October 2007. "We all have the same status but separate functions. My job is to supervise operations as a whole; Vincent mainly handles the desserts and patisserie, his favourite domain, while Kohei adds an Asian touch to some of the traditional dishes." It's a well-oiled system in which our trio fire up their twelve-strong kitchen team with cheerful good humour. What does Yannis Lisseri most like doing? "Just cooking. Fish especially, and delegating as little as possible so as to be with the lads as much as I can. That's my place." As well as the Régate set menu at €69, the Croisière set menu with bouillabaisse at €82 and the main menu (expect to pay €90), Yannis, Vincent and Kohei mention with palpable delight one of their favourite starters: cuttlefish ink tagliatelle, egg yolk confit and sea-flavoured emulsion. Try it!
56 Corniche Kennedy, Marseille 7e - Tél. 04 91 52 15 22
By Louis Badie
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